THE WORLD
IN 2050
Beef farmers are the new coal miners
Red meat could be a casualty of EU’s climate goals.
By EDDY WAX
AND ZOSIA WANAT 6/19/20, 12:00 PM CET Updated 6/22/20, 4:38 AM CET
Farming generates about a tenth of the EU’s greenhouse
gas emissions, and one of the biggest culprits is beef
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This
article is part of the special report The World in 2050.
The coal
fields of Wales, Belgium, Germany and Poland used to be the beating hearts of
Europe’s industrial might. Now the mines that once defined a way of life are
shuttered or endangered. By 2050, the last coal miner will have hung up his
helmet.
As Europe
readies to transition to a zero-carbon economy, beef farmers are worried that
they’re facing the same fate.
Farming
generates about a tenth of the EU’s greenhouse gas emissions, and one of the
biggest culprits is beef — which has a much higher climate impact than most
other meats. The bloc will have to address that if it is to meet its goal of
becoming climate neutral by 2050.
“Consumption
and production of beef in high-income countries has to be reduced by around 90
percent if we want to avoid dangerous levels of climate change and keep global
warming to below 2 degrees,” said Marco Springmann, a senior researcher in
population health at Oxford University.
“Culturally
speaking, the sector is still resisting fiercely" — Marco Contiero,
agriculture policy director for Greenpeace EU
The
prospect of a meatless future is scaring the Continent’s powerful farmers’
lobby and its political allies.
“I believe
there will be less livestock farming, unfortunately,” said Román Santalla, a
dairy farmer in northwestern Spain who leads the livestock division of the
Union of Small Farmers, pointing to the social and economic forces combining
against small family farms.
Spanish
Agriculture Minister Luis Planas recently urged his EU counterparts that the
bloc must avoid taking “very general critical approaches without nuances” on
livestock farming.
The
pushback is part of a broader struggle against a change that could upend
centuries of farming practices and dramatically reshape the EU. Despite years
of reforms, the Common Agricultural Policy is still the bloc’s biggest program,
gobbling up almost 40 percent of its budget.
“Culturally
speaking, the sector is still resisting fiercely,” said Marco Contiero,
agriculture policy director for Greenpeace EU.
It’s not
that farming isn’t making the right noises. Brussels crows that EU agriculture
has cut emissions by a fifth since 1990, but that’s not enough — and it’s
disputed. Guy Pe’er, from iDiv, the German Centre for Integrative Biodiversity
Research, found that farming emissions have been on the rise again after 2012.
Pe’er said
that the European Commission’s calculation that agriculture contributes 10
percent of the bloc’s greenhouse gases should be “at least doubled if not
tripled once you include land-use changes outside the EU,” mainly due to
imported beef.
The bloc’s
Farm to Fork strategy, the food and farming plank of the European Green Deal,
states: “Food systems remain one of the key drivers of climate change.”
European
Agriculture Commissioner Janusz Wojciechowski recently told journalists that
member countries will be “obliged” to reduce greenhouse gas emissions from
animal agriculture as part of the Green Deal.
Many
farmers feel that an industry already struggling to be profitable is being
saddled with too many green requirements.
The Farm to
Fork strategy set a 2030 target to cut 20 percent of fertilizers — often used
to help grow animal feed. It also explicitly sings the environmental virtues of
“moving to a more plant-based diet with less red and processed meat and with
more fruits and vegetables.”
European
Agriculture Commissioner Janusz Wojciechowski said member countries will be
“obliged” to reduce greenhouse gas emissions from animal agriculture as part of
the Green Deal | Olivier Hoslet/EPA
Others
believe that reducing animal agriculture is only likely to happen if there is a
shakeup of the EU’s Common Agricultural Policy. The CAP is a target of ire from
scientists and green NGOs, because the majority of EU subsidies are paid out
based on how much land farmers own rather than what they do with it.
By
radically reducing animal agriculture, which takes up a gargantuan 68 percent
of the total farmed land in the bloc, space could be made to grow fruit,
vegetables or protein crops — or land could be left to rewild, boosting
biodiversity, Springmann suggested.
Faced with
a veggie-heavy future, there’s an effort to see if some beef farming could be
saved if it’s shifted away from an industrial model toward a less intensive
system — something that might please both farmers and environmentalists.
The
European Commission favors an “extensive” model of beef farming, where cattle
graze on grasslands rather than eating imported soy-based animal feed often
grown using fertilizers and pesticides.
“Ultimately
what you’re talking about by 2050 is beef products looking more like something
we don’t expect to be eating every day” — Laura Wellesley, a research fellow at
London’s Chatham House policy institute
“Permanent
pasture land keeps carbon in the soil, and this is the type of production
method that we want to maintain and promote in the future,” one of the EU’s top
agriculture officials told journalists during a Farm to Fork briefing.
But
Springmann said his preliminary research shows that even that sort of a shift
won’t do the trick.
“Just
having this narrative that we get rid of all intensive stuff and move
everything to extensive, doesn’t seem to be enough either,” Springmann said.
“You would still have the direct emissions and usually also indirect
emissions.”
If climate
concerns prevail, the argument for burgers and steaks becomes pretty difficult.
One study found that a kilogram of beef generates 27 kilograms of greenhouse
gases, twice as much as pork, more than three times as much as chicken and 14
times as much as broccoli.
That’s why
some farmers are hoping that technological advances in genetics and digital
farming will allow beef production to continue unabated but with a smaller
carbon footprint.
“I’d like
to think we are still producing beef at the sort of volumes we are now [in
2050] if not more,” said John Royle, the chief livestock adviser of the U.K.’s
National Farmers’ Union.
But that
view is under assault from labs — where scientists are working on cultured meat
that has a lower climate impact. And in 30 years, consumer tastes might be very
different.
Over
400,000 people around the world went vegan in January, with numbers more than
doubling in two years, according to the NGO Veganuary.
“Ultimately
what you’re talking about by 2050 is beef products looking more like something
we don’t expect to be eating every day,” said Laura Wellesley, a research
fellow at London’s Chatham House policy institute. “That has enormous
implications for the livelihoods of farmers … Of course there’s going to be
resistance to change.”
Some
farmers, though, still feel they have a future — unlike coal miners.
“I think
people will always want meat, they recognize quality. You’ve got to do all the
things around it that make people not feel guilty when eating meat,” Royle
said.
CORRECTION:
An earlier version of this article misspelled Román Santalla.

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