Palm
Beach Has Never Been Richer. The Locals Aren’t Pleased.
Donald
Trump’s presidency has turned this Florida island into the nightlife
headquarters of MAGA, but the town’s old guard — much of it Republican —
doesn’t love the new vibe.
By David
Segal
Reporting
from Palm Beach, Fla.
June 22,
2025
https://www.nytimes.com/2025/06/22/business/palm-beach-trump-maga.html
behind
elaborate landscaping. To learn what belongs to whom, and how much it cost, a
guide is needed, and Dana Koch, who has been selling real estate here for 22
years, knows the area cold. He’s a veteran docent in a zoo where the creatures
are billionaires and it’s difficult to see the cages.
“Howard and
Beth Stern live here,” he said, pointing to a gate flanked by shrubbery. “This
whole place, he paid about $50 million for it years ago. Now it’s worth $200
million.”
On it goes,
an inventory of rich and famous people, a patter that rambles along, like Mr.
Koch’s car, at about 10 miles an hour. Jon Bon Jovi lives there. That’s where
Roger Ailes slipped in the shower and died. William Lauder built this, after
buying Rush Limbaugh’s place for $155 million and tearing it down.
Some homes
are identified by job (N.F.L. owner, sugar magnate) others by names, (Dr. Oz,
Tom Ford, Charles Schwab). That lot once belonged to Jeffrey Epstein, whose
place was razed. A new house is under construction, and the owners, Mr. Koch
speculates, are going to apply for a new address.
These have
been busy months for Mr. Koch, 52, who is not related to the famous Republican
donors. (“Same name, different bank account.”) Palm Beach is, of course, home
to President Trump’s private club, Mar-a-Lago. After the election in November,
there was a “Trump bump,” with $100 million worth of property on Palm Beach
going under contract in the span of a week. Late last year, the Fox News host
Sean Hannity purchased a $23.5 million mansion in nearby Manalapan, then spent
$14.9 million on an oceanfront townhouse in Palm Beach in January. (He’d
previously spent $5.3 million for a townhouse here in 2021.)
The real
surge happened later on, with sales of single-family homes rising by 67 percent
in the seven months between November and May compared with the same period last
year. This Trump-ward migration had little to do with Mr. Trump, real estate
agents say. Most of these purchases were made by people waiting for
post-election clarity about taxes, regulations and the direction of the
economy, a quadrennial phenomenon.
But for
years, Trump-adjacent celebrities and multimillionaires have been moving to the
area, one of the world’s priciest ZIP codes. Sylvester Stallone, who once
praised Mr. Trump as a “mythical character” at the America First Policy
Institute gala on the island, spent $33.5 million for an oceanfront estate in
2020. The Citadel chief executive, Ken Griffin, a onetime Trump supporter
turned critic, has reportedly spent years and $450 million snapping up 25 acres
of parcels in what’s called Billionaires Row. Construction is now underway on a
50,000-square-foot home for his mother.
But the true
economic — and cultural — impact of the second Trump administration here isn’t
in the dust of construction sites. It’s the noisy influx of young Republican
partyers, favor-seekers and pols who have altered the delicate social ecosystem
of one of the richest enclaves in the world, home to more than 50 billionaires,
according to a review of Forbes data by The Palm Beach Daily News.
The
newcomers regard Mr. Trump as a living tourist attraction and Palm Beach as his
buzzy natural habitat. They are now wedged into booths at recently opened
private clubs and joyfully cannonballing into the island’s once-placid infinity
pool.
An $85
Million Patch of Dirt
Palm Beach
is an 18-mile sliver of land off the east coast of South Florida, shaped like a
diver knifing through water, arms overhead. The start of its gilded age begins
in 1894 when a Standard Oil partner named Henry Flagler opened the Royal
Poinciana Hotel, and the area soon attracted others from his demographic who
began building luxury estates of their own. This includes La Querida, a
15,000-square-foot mansion in the Mediterranean Revival style and built by an
heir to the Wanamaker department store fortune. It was later sold to Joseph P.
Kennedy, and remained in the family when his son became president.
“It was the
original ‘Winter White House,’” said Mr. Koch, gesturing toward 1095 North
Ocean Boulevard from behind the wheel of his BMW. He describes the properties
with a mix of pride and ironic distance, a tone that says, “Sure, the numbers
are insane, but isn’t this great?”
At one
point, he drove by a single acre of undeveloped land. It looked like any other
mundane patch of earth.
“I sold this
for $85 million last year,” he said. “The dirt.”
Mr. Trump
has played a key role in these stratospheric sums, though indirectly. During
his first term, he signed the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017, which sharply
limited the amount of state and local tax that could be deducted from federal
taxes. For high-net-worth individuals, moving to a state with no state income
tax, like Florida, was suddenly an idea worth many millions of dollars. Then
came Covid.
“It’s not
just the billionaires who moved here,” said Holly Meyer Lucas, a real estate
agent in South Florida. “It’s the sons of billionaires, the daughters, the
family office staff. The ripple effect has kept prices soaring for years.”
Mr. Koch
slowed down to point out a six-bedroom house on a 10,000-square-foot plot that
was acquired for $26 million in January 2021. Five months later, it was flipped
for just under $42 million. Now it’s worth at least $60 million, he said.
It was
nearly 3 p.m. by then, and a modest bit of traffic had formed in the Royal
Poinciana Way Historic District, near a statue of Henry Flagler.
“It’s called
the ‘trade parade,’” he said of the mini snarl of vehicles. “There’s been so
much turnover on these properties that we have a very large number of
contractors and subcontractors who start leaving this time of day.”
For decades,
Palm Beach was a redoubt of old-money families, with names like Whitney and
Harriman. When Laurence Leamer, author of “Mar-a-Lago: Inside the Gates of
Power at Donald Trump’s Presidential Palace,” first arrived in Palm Beach in
the mid-1990s, he didn’t understand why so few neighbors would speak to him.
That December, he brought home a Christmas tree.
“There were
all these people in black tie, on their way to their clubs, and they thought,
‘Oh, God, so Larry isn’t Jewish after all,’” he said in a phone interview.
Everyone quickly became a lot friendlier.
A strain of
country-club antisemitism had been embedded in Palm Beach for years, many
residents say, and it surfaced, inevitably, in the country clubs. Only one, the
Palm Beach Country Club, was dominated by Jews. This quiet prejudice reached a
head in the mid-90s, when Jews began moving to the island in large numbers, to
the subdued consternation of many old-line Palm Beach residents, who wondered
why these people didn’t stick to Miami.
‘A Lot of
Name-Dropping’
Enter Donald
Trump. He’d bought Mar-a-Lago in 1985, and turned it into a membership club a
decade later. He welcomed anyone who could afford the $25,000 initiation fee.
“It became
an overwhelmingly Jewish club,” Mr. Leamer said. “The Jews didn’t want to admit
it because they didn’t want to say they belonged to Catskill South. But that’s
what it was.”
It was also,
soon enough, the hoppingest spot on the island. At the time, Mr. Trump owned
casinos and had pull with the best entertainers in the industry. Billy Joel
performed. So did Tony Bennett, Celine Dion and Rod Stewart.
“And Trump
was a wonderful host,” Mr. Leamer said. “He would stand at the door, greet
everyone. He didn’t do this to change the world. He did it to make a buck. But
who cares? The results were terrific.”
Mar-a-Lago
has evolved. After 2016, and the start of Mr. Trump’s first term, locals who
had flocked to it for a quality meal and a bit of networking found it was soon
overstuffed with people they didn’t like. Getting a reservation for dinner
became a chore. Many in the old guard quit, replaced by the new contingent,
even after the initiation fee was doubled to $200,000 in 2017.
Today, the
initiation fee is $1 million, according to Bloomberg, and the Moorish mansion
is busier than ever. Those on the inside say an evening there is a singular
delight.
“It’s a lot
of name-dropping, a lot of clout chasing. Everybody’s trying to get close to
the president and his inner circle,” said Melissa Rein Lively, founder and
chief executive of America First PR, which she describes as America’s No. 1
anti-woke public relations firm. She visits the club from South Beach Miami.
The MAGA
crowd at Mar-a-Lago and around the island is something new and, like everything
that is new in a place that has a style of its own, not exactly welcome.
“It’s like
new convertibles, fake nails, fake boobs, fake hair, fake eyes and big
jewelry,” said Celerie Kemble, an interior decorator who grew up in Palm Beach
and prefers her memories of a place all about bare feet and sand-filled cars.
“These people are dressing up to get coffee.”
The
differences are not just aesthetic. Hundreds of nonprofits descend on Palm
Beach annually for what’s known as “the season,” from late November to early
May. The calendar is jammed with opportunities to dress up and write a check.
But giving
to nonpolitical local causes, like museums and hospitals, is not a high
priority for many of Mr. Trump’s most ardent followers here, according to Mr.
Leamer. Or for Mr. Trump. While a candidate in 2016, he shut down his personal
foundation after it was revealed that he’d used money from it to settle legal
disputes against his businesses.
He’d also
spent $10,000 in foundation cash for a portrait of himself, now hanging at
Mar-a-Lago. It works in a setting where Mr. Trump gets some of his most
boisterous ovations. At dinners and galas at the club, Secret Service agents
tell guests to stay in their seats when the president walks in and please,
ladies and gentlemen, do not take any photographs.
This rarely
works.
“It’s like
you’re asking kids not to eat sugar, right?” said Andrés DePew, a 27-year-old
entrepreneur who founded a chapter of the Conservative Political Action
Conference in his native Colombia.
Mr. DePew
has posted many images of his own from Mar-a-Lago, part of an Instagram feed
crammed with parties, dinners with other young, photogenic conservatives. Clad
in Ralph Lauren and Dolce & Gabbana, he looks pensive and thrilled at the
same time. On one memorable night, he met Mike Tyson and Russell Brand (“Great
guy”) along with Michael Flynn, a former U.S. national security adviser; Bo
Loudon, an 18-year-old conservative influencer; and one of the Real Housewives
of Beverly Hills. For dinner, he likes Renato’s, an Italian restaurant that
doesn’t skimp on old-world flair. On Worth Avenue — one of the great
gold-plated retail strips in the world, with Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Bottega
Veneta and many others — he’s a fan of Maus & Hoffman, a men’s wear store
that sells an Italian hopsack blazer for $3,295.
Sales of
clothing, jewelry and everything else behind glass here were up 30 percent from
December to May compared with the same period last year, said Marianna Abbate
of the Luxury PR & Hospitality Group, which polls Worth Avenue retailers.
She said that the vast majority of the shoppers lived elsewhere, in the
relatively less well-heeled West Palm Beach, which is just across the bridge,
and points south, down I-95.
For revelers
in search of more rarefied, less politicized air, there’s the Carriage House.
It’s one of a relatively new style of private club catering to a younger
audience seeking a bit of New York City’s always-on energy. The Carriage House
doesn’t have a golf course or a beach. It’s a lunch, dinner and drinks venue
that offers a group of people “carefully curated to reflect the Club’s
sophisticated yet playful atmosphere,” as it says on the website. A membership
reportedly costs $400,000.
Meals are
extra.
Put Off, but
Not Going Anywhere
Republicans
outnumber Democrats in Palm Beach County two to one, according to data from the
Supervisor of Elections. If the resistance to the MAGA tide has a spiritual
home here, it is Leta Austin Foster & Daughters, a twee little store that
sells bedding, children’s clothing, gifts and interior design services near
Worth Avenue. In June 2020, the only person to show up at a Black Lives Matter
protest in front of Town Hall was Ms. Foster, then 80. Many retailers boarded
up their stores, braced for vandalism that never happened.
Ms. Foster’s
daughter India grew up on Palm Beach, and one recent afternoon she sat on a
staircase in the store and mused about the changes she’s seen over the years.
On the plus side, the place has gotten younger. When she moved back in 2006,
after living in San Francisco, she looked up some stats and found that less
than 1 percent of the island’s population was under 35 years old.
“Here’s a
young person,” she said to a 20ish customer, and everyone else within earshot.
“This never happened before.”
But many of
the members of Gen Z and plenty of millennials she meets grate on her. One guy
told her that he is “part of the new world order.” So as gorgeous as Palm Beach
is, India Foster isn’t sure she can handle the rightward tilt of the place for
the rest of her life. (And at least for her business, the influx of young MAGA
types has not helped the bottom line.)
Still, in
interviews with a dozen people, only one had imminent plans to move away: a
Republican.
J. Richard
Knop was sitting in the den of his home when Mr. Koch stopped by to show what
$21.9 million will now buy you on the island. (Answer: a five-bedroom,
six-and-a-half-bathroom house on a 6,500-square-foot lot, with a pool and
plenty of bougainvillea.) Mr. Knop’s life circumstances had changed, he said,
and he has moved in with his fiancée, who lives in Northern Virginia. It will
bring him closer to Washington, where he spent years as a lawyer and deal maker
in the defense industry.
Mr. Knop was
an investment banker for defense contractors, and did multimillion-dollar deals
with former employees of the Defense Department, the C.I.A. and elsewhere who’d
left government to create their own companies.
“My career
was in the swamp,” he said with a smile.
The MAGA
day-trippers notwithstanding, many Republicans here still tend to be the
variety that gets their news from The Wall Street Journal, not Newsmax. Some of
them are deeply put off by Mr. Trump’s assault on corporations, Mr. Leamer and
others said, along with his bullying of law firms, his slamming of European
allies. But they will benefit from much of the president’s agenda, like tax
cuts for the rich, and their beloved island will continue to prosper, whether
they like him or not.
“I think
this town is a little bit aghast at itself,” said Ms. Kemble, the interior
decorator. “But the fact is, everybody here is safe because of their money.”
David Segal
is a business reporter for The Times, based in New York.
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