Tourism
After a Year Without Rowdy Tourists, European
Cities Want to Keep It That Way
Pandemic lockdowns meant fewer crowds and less
garbage. Now Amsterdam, Prague and Barcelona want to make some changes
permanent.
By Paul
Tullis
17 August
2021, 08:00 CEST Updated on 18 August 2021, 20:36 CEST
On a warm
Friday night in July, the sun seemed to linger behind Amsterdam’s low, 16th
century skyline. In the red light district, the crush of tourists that was
common before the pandemic had long since vanished, making it easy for a
delivery worker to cycle past a handful of gawkers around the old town’s
notorious storefronts.
While six
German men in matching t-shirts ignored signs warning of a €95 ($112) fine as
they swilled beers on a nearby footbridge, they were the exception. Mostly,
only small groups of sedate strollers were about on this midsummer evening.
Centuries
before its more lurid attractions took hold, Amsterdam was already a tourist
draw. As far back as 1345, when a communion wafer at a local church apparently
proved indestructible, pilgrims flocked to see the miracle host. In modern
times, decidedly less spiritual activities have drawn millions to the city’s
quaint, canal-lined quarters. And the noise, garbage and violence followed.
The city
was already scrambling to find ways to restrain the tourist trade before the
coronavirus struck. Hefty fines for public drinking, tight restrictions on
short-term rentals and outright bans on certain types of shops were
implemented. But more visitors kept coming. By 2019, their numbers approached 9
million—more than 10 per resident.
Then it all
stopped. For months, tourists where nowhere to be found as borders were sealed
tight. Later, as infection waves receded, only a trickle returned. Overall,
Amsterdam’s commercial establishments have seen almost 25% fewer visitors since
Covid-19 first arrived.
Even in the
red light district, the lack of drunken revelers remains apparent despite many
restrictions having been lifted. Locals wander wide-eyed through a part of
town they rarely visit, amazed at its architectural beauty. Among city
officials, this tiny silver lining to a global health catastrophe planted a
seed. While Amsterdam arguably needs tourism to survive, maybe this
once-in-a-century pandemic could be used to remake how the city embraces it.
As it
turned out, local officials in other tourist hotspots across Europe had the
same idea.
First Steps
to Re-Open Shops and Restaurants in Dutch Capital
Only a
trickle of tourists have returned to Amsterdam this year. While city officials
say they want to jettison the negative effects of tourism overload, business
owners are leery of losing revenue.
Cities
across the continent want to mold visits into shapes less onerous for
residents, and perhaps more lucrative for business. Optimally, a virtuous
circle can be created where loud partiers are supplanted by museum-goers with
more money to spend—or so the thinking goes.
Call it
curated tourism.
“We met
with representatives from Amsterdam, Barcelona and Florence during the
pandemic, and all of us were thinking the same thing,” said Hana Třeštíková,
Prague’s councilor of tourism. “Before Covid, over-tourism had become almost
unbearable, and Covid gave a pause to try and make some changes in what our
cities represent, how we promote ourselves and how we must focus on quality of
visits—not quantity.”
Not so long
ago, these cities marketed themselves to everyone. But Amsterdam’s widely
available cannabis and legal prostitution, Barcelona’s urban beaches and
Prague’s famous beer halls increasingly attracted tourists who brought what
Geerte Udo, director of amsterdam&partners, diplomatically called “negative
effects.”
When much
of Europe shut down last year, the medieval center of Amsterdam—a UNESCO World
Heritage Site—took on “a breathtaking beauty,” said Udo, whose nonprofit serves
as a civic booster. The emptiness also revealed how few locals actually live
there, she said. “You feel it’s not more than a theater backdrop.”
Czech
Republic Reopens its Cafe and Restaurant Terraces
Tourism in
Prague almost doubled between 2012 and 2019, though city officials say most
visitors tend to go to the same neighborhoods.
But the
pandemic also made clear how important tourist euros are to the livelihood of
these cities. About 13% of Barcelona’s economy and 11% of Amsterdam’s jobs can
be tied to visitors.
Lénia
Marques, assistant professor of cultural organization and management at Erasmus
University in Rotterdam, said cities are thinking, “‘who is the tourist we’re
inviting?’ Do we want this mass needing more hotels, or do we seek tourists
more interested in our culture, a tourist who will appreciate more of what we
have—and be able to spend more?’”
In recent
years, Prague’s tourist problem started to resemble Amsterdam’s, Třeštíková
said. The Czech capital was getting 8 million visitors a year, almost doubling
between 2012 and 2019. And like Amsterdam, most headed to the same
neighborhoods, she said. In Prague’s case, they clog the Old Town Square and
Charles Bridge.
“The city
center is not a residential locality anymore, Třeštíková said. “There are not
many apartments, and those are largely occupied by expats or converted to
hotels and short-term rentals. We need to focus on what residents need and show
a city that’s not a film set but alive with people from Prague.”
But
reshaping a city’s tourist trade is harder than just changing marketing firms.
Třeštíková said the biggest factors behind “low-quality” visits aren’t in the
city’s control. The cost of tickets on budget airlines, the number of Airbnb
units and even the price of beer can only be changed at the national level, she
said.
A
spokesperson for the Czech Ministry of Regional Development acknowledged that
taxes on alcohol and air travel are determined by Parliament, but noted
Prague’s city council can submit legislative proposals. A bill from the city
that would provide municipalities with more power to regulate short-term
rentals is currently under consideration, he said.
Beach
Tourism as Spain Opens to Vaccinated Holidaymakers
Barcelona
has designed a network of bus stops to help spread visitors more evenly around
the city. Officials have also frozen licenses on short-term rentals.
Situated in
the most-visited part of the second most-visited country in the world (after
France), Barcelona faces a unique challenge when it comes to transforming
tourism. While the Spanish city’s “negative effects” are less extreme than
those endured by Amsterdam or Prague, Xavier Marcé, councilor for tourism and
creative industries, said he wants to attract tourists interested in more than
just its seaside location.
“When I
visit New York, I am interested in what New Yorkers do,” he said. “It’s much
better to have a tourist model linked to culture or science, because it means
that there is a connection with the resident.”
Toward this
end, Barcelona designed a network of bus stops to spread visitors more evenly
around the city while also freezing new licenses for short-term rentals—the
abuse of which has been a key cause of over-tourism, Marcé said.
Airbnb
advertises “apartments, but they don’t check the legal status of those
apartments,” Marcé said. “It’s when we let them know that the apartment is
illegal when they remove it immediately.” Andreu Castellano, an Airbnb
spokesperson, said the company has worked with Barcelona officials since 2018
to drop operators “who don’t respect the rules.” He added that “more than 7,000
bad actors have been removed as a result.”
In Italy,
some Venetians want to do the opposite of what Barcelona is trying. “Spread out
tourism? That’s worse,” said Melissa Conn, director of the nonprofit Save
Venice. Conn said she prefers visitors stick to Piazza San Marco so residents
can have the rest of the city to themselves. Save Venice Vice President Alberto
Nardi agreed, but warned that tourism is critical to the city’s survival. The
owner of a jewelry shop on the piazza, Nardi said Venice’s population has been
declining, its cost of living rising and non-tourism jobs vanishing.
Venice must
“develop businesses that are different from tourism,” Nardi said.
Tourists
return to Venice As Business Reopens
The
director of the nonprofit Save Venice said residents would rather see visitors
limited to the iconic Piazza San Marco (above).
For cities
looking to change who comes calling (or their behavior), any successful effort
requires an advertising campaign. Amsterdam has prepared two such initiatives.
One announced by Deputy Mayor for Economic Affairs Victor Everhardt in June is
aimed at culturally-minded urban residents of nearby countries such as France
and Belgium, and will begin when the risk of infection recedes further, both in
those nations and the Netherlands. The other is intended to “stimulate desired
behavior” by young men visiting from the U.K.
“We’re
focusing on people who have interest in culture in the broadest sense of the
word,” he said. “We try to persuade them to visit all these other beautiful
parts of the city.”
Even before
Covid, Prague officials hired an agency that sought to persuade tourists “to
come for more than two nights.” During the short-lived summer 2020 reopening,
the city introduced “Prague Unlocked,” a campaign aimed at a Czech audience,
since foreign travelers were still rare. It was a success. Usually just 15% of
Prague’s tourists are domestic (compared with 20% in Vienna and almost 50% in
Paris). But in 2020, the number of Czech visitors rose by 16%, with many
staying in three- and four-star hotels, Třeštíková said.
Then
there’s the other side of the equation. Udo of amsterdam&partners said her
group is lobbying the Dutch government to impose a minimum price on plane
tickets, while others want to ban Airbnb from the city altogether. Barcelona
last month instituted a new tax on stays in tourist establishments that goes to
the municipal government. It could raise as much as €16.5 million annually with
the revenue used to promote less-visited neighborhoods, such as Poblenou and
Gràcia.
Technology
is also being leveraged to redirect tourist flows. “Amsterdam works with phone
companies to know how many people are in certain areas, then they can take
measures to stop more people coming in,” said Marques of Erasmus University. As
areas become too crowded, visitors will receive a text message with an offer
for an attraction in a different part of town. If things get really bad,
stanchions will be erected to stop more people from entering and overcrowded
area, she said.
But any
plan that risks cutting tourist dollars—even for a short time—is likely to run
into trouble with businesses already deeply hurt by the pandemic. For curated
tourism to have a chance, said Barcelona’s Marcé, a city’s hospitality sector
must be on board.
“Barcelona’s
hospitality sector is very strong,” he said. “You can’t suddenly say there will
be half as many tourists.”

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